by Joseph Richard Francis
written by Joseph Richard Francis Published: Updated:
Peniche surf spots reign as some of the most popular in all of Portugal. There are breaks facing in all directions, which means something for all levels and waves that work all seasons. The town also has a range of excellent surf camps. Read on to discover all about the local beach breaks, reefs, surf schools, and more…
An introduction to Peniche surf
Peniche is perhaps the most famous of all Portugal’s surf towns, up there with the likes of Sagres and Ericiera.
It straddles a headland that pokes into the Atlantic just over an hour’s drive north of Lisbon. Everything about the geography yells “surf mecca!”
Beaches arch out in both directions. Ranging from the wild coast north of Baleal all the way to Supertubos (Europe’s most legendary beach break).
That means you’ll find all sorts to ride and places that pick up swell when its anywhere between SW and NW channels. There are sand-bottomed options for beginners. There are rocky reef sections for the pros. And there good A-frame spots for intermediates.
Yea, it might not be the prettiest place to wax down the fibre and surf in these parts (the town is a touch ugly). But the wind’s usually offshore (just watch the spray!) and there’s a formidable variety that makes Peniche waves a magnet for all sorts.
On top of all that, you’ve got an ever-growing array of surf hotels and surf camps, along with a pretty fun row of bars and restaurants that stay lively late into the night. Plus, it’s one if the few destinations in PT that you probably don’t need a rental car to enjoy to the full.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
This article is a part of our larger guide to surfing Portugal
Surfing in Peniche at a glance
Wave type: Beach breaks // Season: All seasons // Level: All levels
The good:
A huge variety of surf spots.
Supertubos – probably Europe’s most amazing barrelling beach break.
Top bars and vibrant nightlife.
Peniche surf lodge and surf schools options some of the best in the country.
The bad:
This ain’t the prettiest town in PT!
A touch of localism in the harder breaks.
Gets busy
What you’ll find in this guide
Where is Peniche?
Peniche is around 1h10 hours’ driving from Lisbon. It sits on a bend in the Portuguese coast, with a headland (once an island) pokes out into the Atlantic Ocean. There are more protected surf beaches to the north (best for beginners) and less-protected bays to the south (hello Supertubos) that are open to the main Atlantic W swell channels.
These days, the Peniche surf territory also sort of links up with the nearby village of Ferrel, which is just 3.5 miles inland – a taxi between the two costs 15 EUR.
How to get to Peniche?
Your first step should be getting to Lisbon Airport. That’s the gateway to the whole Silver Coast and central Portugal. It’s an hour’s drive from Peniche. Pick between:
- Low-cost airlines: These days, there are oodles of budget airlines offering links into Lisbon Airport. That sits around 1.5 hours by direct drive from Peniche. Carriers like Ryanair and EasyJet share most of the routes, with connections to London Stansted, Bristol, and Edinburgh to name just a few. You can rent cars with roof racks for the surfboards in the terminal.
- Premium airlines: Being so close to Lisbon in Peniche means you can make use of a wide variety of the country’s premium airline arrives. TAP Portugal is one to watch. It has loads of connections landing at Humberto Delgado Airport in the capital. You’re talking as far afield as Chicago, Stockholm, and Rio!
We use Omio to compare all flight options.
How to get to Peniche from Lisbon?
Honestly, the best way to do this is by bus…
Buses and coaches come in from lots of major cities in Portugal. You can arrive from Lisbon in 1.5 hours. Connections with Rede Expresso leave from the Sete Rios station on the north side of the capital. Flixbus also run connections out of Oriente.
It’s such a popular route that departures go like every 30 minutes or something. We’d probably air on the side of safety and book in advance for travels between May and September, when this route is popular.
We use Omio for all our coach bookings in Europe these days. It’s simple, trusty, and can be done 100% online…
We should also note that you can get the train from Lisbon to Dagorda – Peniche station. That puts you inland at Obidos. From there, a car rental or a bus connection takes another 30 minutes to the beaches. (Overall – we don’t recommend this as the most convenient option – especially if you’re bringing surfboards).
Do I need to rent a car to surf in Peniche?
No, not really.
In fact, we’d say that Peniche is one of the few surf towns in the country that can be enjoyed to the full without your own wheels (it’s probably this, Ericeira, and maybe Santa Cruz).
That’s all because very regular buses leave from stations in Lisbon itself to connect with the town in about 1-1.5 hours in total. Train is also an option, but does mean a changeover in a nearby town. Check above for our guide to public transport to Peniche from Lisbon.
Having said that…Don’t be in any doubt that having your own car rental will add more freedom to the trip. It will let you surf all the breaks in Peniche (which is quite a spread-out town) and other spots up and down the Silver Coast. It’s also great for dodging the busier spots and finding places that are offshore when ones near the center arent,.
The good news is that Portugal actually has some of the cheapest car rentals in the whole of Europe. We recently scored a whole month here (for a surf trip that included both Peniche and Ericeira, in fact) for under 300 euros (about $320).
You’ll want to get yours from Lisbon Airport as that’s the closest arrival point, under an hour’s drive. Be certain to book as early as you can via RentalCars, which we find to be by far the best tool for comparing all the top deals. We booked our latest car with Centuaro and the whole thing was pretty fantastic. You can pay a little extra to add a roof rack to bring along the board if you want.
Getting around Peniche
Once you’re in Peniche itself then getting around shouldn’t be too much hassle.
If you’ve opted – as we recommend most beginner surfers do – for a surf camp, then you don’t have to worry a jot. Your camp will probably take care of all your transport to and from breaks. And they’ll usually visit a good mix of them, both in beginner-friendly north Peniche and in the more challenging south of the town.
If you’re going it alone, then it’s probably a good idea to consult our spot map below and choose the area you want to surf most days. Except, of course, if you were planning on renting a car. If you get your own wheels, it’s no biggie driving from A to B at all – the whole town can be covered in like 15 mins.
A few taxi drivers serve the Peniche-Baleal areas. They tend to be a bit pricier than their compadres in Lisbon. Expect to pay around the 20 EUR mark to get from Peniche town to Ferrel.
The best surf spots in Peniche?
One thing’s for sure: Peniche has no shortage of surf spots!
No one’s ever gone hungry for a knee-high swell, a classic Atlantic A-frame, or even a slabby beach barrel in these parts.
However, before you book a Peniche surf hol and start getting excited, it’s worth getting a feel for the lay of the land. Knowing where each break awaits can be the difference between flinging open your door onto a light sand bay or a gnarly reef, especially since this town is spread out along several kilometers of shoreline and getting from A to B without a car can often be a bit tricky.
Gigi
Running beneath the dunes on the north bay is the long boarder fav of Gigi (or Gigi’s). This one’s top in a rising tide with a SE wind. It gives both left and rights, with some nicely sculpted flatliners for those who want to sit in the pocket and enjoy the views. Not often crowded and great for beginners. Just be wary of some sand-covered rocks.
Prainha
If you’re heading to Peniche as a beginner surfer, Prainha is likely where you’ll first get wet. Protected from the dominant swells by Baleal Island, this one rolls nicely onto an open beachfront. It can get pretty busy, especially on incoming tides. That’s why we recommend rising early for a dawn patrol.
Cantinho da Baia
A classic Peniche surf spot that really showcases classic of Portuguese beach breaks, Cantinho da Baia crashes off the rocks that line the south side of Baleal island. Closest to the wall, it’s more protected and smaller – better for novices. As you move closer to the centre of the bay, the wedges get punchier and can peak overhead.
Papoa
The Peniche wave to rival Nazare is Papo. When the swells are up in winter and the onshores are pumping, this bad boy is for jet-ski pull outs and big drops. It rolls right across the reef that lines the town itself. Don’t even think about it if you’re not a pro big wave surfer!
Bananas
Bananas gets big in winter, and often closes out. In the summer, it can be the best Peniche wave around. Glassy walls break against sand, and there’s even an occasional mini barrel for the intermediates.
Supertubos
A beach break to put any in France to shame, Supertubos is famed the world over. It’s considered a baby version of iconic tube rides like the Banzai Pipeline and Uluwatu. The predominant direction is left, but the wave actually works in both directions. Southern swells help it hold up. When they aren’t on, you can expect some hefty close outs. Usually reserved for experienced surfers. Always expect a crowd.
Praia da Areia Branca
Praia da Areia Branca is about 120 minute’s drive south of Peniche along the Atlantic. the breaks aren’t actually any better in quality, but there’s usually way less of a line up. It’s another classic PT bech break with lots of punchy peaks. Works well on a westerly but not too strong because it will close out. All levels okay but not on the biggest day.
We’ve got a complete guide to surfing Areia Branca
Surf camps in Peniche
Of all the surf towns in Portugal – and there are LOADS – we think Peniche is in the top three for learning to surf.
A lot of that is down to the protected but consistent beaches of Baleal. But there’s also a lot to be said for the overload of surf camp packages that happen here…
You’ve got thousands to pick from. A lot are great but some are lacking in what we think are the key aspects: Quality of surf tuition.
That’s what we’ve focused on here with our picks…
- 8 Day Breathtaking Surf and Yoga Holiday in Peniche – Wow, wow, and wow again. A lot of people were very excited about the opening of the new Salty Pelican in Peniche. A lot of people are very pleased what they god. This is the bee’s knees of surf camps here. It’s got dorm packages for budget travelers and provate doubles for couples, a super slick rooftop terrace, and excellent tuition from qualified surf instructors. If you can, book this. We’ve listed the accommodation only link above, but you can also book full surf packages.
- 11 Day Surf Camp on Baleal Island, Peniche – Alex Surf School offer the full shebang of an 11-day surf adventure in Peniche. Based out of Baleal in north Peniche, you’ll have the pick of the learner waves and top-notch tuition to match. This package includes eight lessons and two surf sessions per day, along with use of the in-house wetties and boards.
We also have a dedicated guide to the best surf camps in Peniche for 2023 with a few more tried-and-tested options for all levels.
There are quite a few top surf camps in Peniche, which is why we’ve included one or two in our overall pick of the best surf camps in Portugal.
Hotels for surfers in Peniche
Because Peniche has risen to become one of the most popular surfing spots in all of Portugal, there are oodles of places to stay. From deluxe coast cottages and villas to party hostels, there’s something for all sorts of travelers.
The main thing is picking somewhere that puts you close to the Peniche surf spot that suits you the most. Usually that means going for accommodation in either Baleal or Peniche town itself.
However, there are others along the roadsides going north, closer to Supertubos, and even in nearby Ferrel village. You can check out the map above to see if your hotel fits with the breaks you’re after.
The Salty Pelican Yoga & Surf Retreat
Best for: Just the best tbh
To be honest, there are few surf camps that can beat The Salty Pelican Yoga & Surf Retreat in all of Portugal – nah, Europe! We list this one firmly among our very favorite surf camps in the country. It’s neatly placed right next to the beginner surf beach of Baleal, has a super-style interior, the coolest rooftop bar around, and a vibe that’s exactly what you want from a surf hotel. Top job!
Peniche Surf Lodge ($-$$)
Best for: A boutique stay
This handsome lodge that sits on the main road on the way to Baleal Beach is proper nice. The location is spot on for beginners who want to walk to the waves each day. The facilities are second to none. We love how lively it gets for post-surf parties and how easy they make it to plan your surf lessons – just rock up to reception and book on.
Peniche Surfcamp ($-$$)
Best for: Digital nomad surfers in Peniche
Peniche Surfcamp is a co-work and surf retreat that’s specifically aimed at digital nomads and traveling surfers. it’s got simple yet affordable accomodation across private rooms and dorms, along with a bar and a beachfront location near the beginner-friendly waves of Baleal
Pineapple Surf House ($)
Best for: Budget surf trips to Peniche
This chilled surf hostel with its own pizza oven faces straight over the dunes back from Supertubos. You couldn’t stay any closer to Europe’s most iconic beach break!
Surf lessons in Peniche
If you’ve gone for the self-plan route, not a surf camp, then you can always give your holiday a little structure by adding in surf lessons on top.
There’s no reason you can’t just book these when you arrive. Well, there MIGHT be in summer, when we have seen big waits for lessons because it’s so busy. Most of the year, you’ll be okay, though, as there are plenty of places offering walk-in sessions along the main road to Ferrel and around Baleal Beach, the main learner area.
If you did want to pre-book for piece of mind, then check out the lessons we recommend below…
- Peniche: Surf Class for All Levels – A very highly rated surf camp offering that’s 1.5 hours in all and can be tailored to all levels of surfer. Run out of one of the most popular surf shacks in town, on the main break between Peniche and Baleal. Great offering. Can’t go wrong.
- Surf Course In Peniche and Baleal Portugal – You can book a package of up to 10 lessons with these guys. That’s a great buy if you’re planning on being in Peniche for some time and really want to improve. It’s sort of like doing a surf camp only without the accommodation aspect.
When to surf in Peniche?
Swell direction is predominantly from the north in Peniche. The various outcrops and sandbanks help to filter that into different spots for different levels. However, the changing of the seasons can shift things just enough to have a huge impact on Peniche waves. The barrels at Supertubos can look positively tame if you’re surfing in Peniche in August, for example. Come December, you can rest assured they’ll be roaring and overhead!
May-October (All levels)
Surfing in Peniche in August is uber-popular. The town draws everyone from surf campers to families. Months like July and September are similar in terms of waves, but much quieter (and cheaper). From spring to early autumn, you can expect much smaller swells and lighter winds. That said, this is the Atlantic, which means there’s always the chance of an overhead when things get pumping.
Wear: 3/2mm will cover it
November-April (Intermediate/pro)
Winter can alter the prevailing swell direction a little to the north-west. That channels stronger groundswells straight into Peniche’s main bays. It converts spots like Papoa into mini Nazares. Even the easy beach breaks at Tupatur and Baleal can become beasts. The upshot? It might be best to leave the winter to the experts.
Wear: It’s 4/3 throughout the whole Portuguese winter
Step-by-step guide to planning your Peniche surf trip right now
Step one: Book flights to the Peniche surf…Lately, we like Omio for searching flights. It’s a nice interface and has lots of airline options. We also use Skyscanner because that sometimes offers deals that even beat going direct to the carrier!
Step two: Book your surf camp Book Surf Camps is the numero uno online booking platform for fully-fledged surf-stay packages on the internet right now. Then there’s Booking.com. That has consistently unbeatable rates for hotels and a nifty map feature that lets you check EXACTLY how close your hotel is to a surf break.
Step three: Get insuranceThis is kinda’ important. Not just for surf trips but for any trips. SafetyWing is great for nomad travelers. They offer rolling contracts that cover amateur surfing.
Step four (optional): Rent a car If you’re surf camping then you might not need wheels. If you’re not then we’ll just say this: We’ve never been on a surf trip that wasn’t improved by having our own car. Use RentalCars – they’re the best.
Step five: Enjoy!
For paying for stuff when you’re traveling – Get a Wise borderless card/account. They charge NOTHING for POS payments in any country and have some of the best FX rates around in our humble opinion.
Surfboard rentals in Peniche
You won’t have to look very far to find a surfboard rental in Peniche. There are little cabanas set up just behind the sand. You’ll find them in Baleal and in Peniche itself, but also strung along the windy road that links the two. Expect to pay between €15-25 for a surfboard and wetsuit rental for two hours.
There are also more full-on surf shops in Peniche than you can shake some Sex Wax at. What’s more, loads of surf lodges and hostels here offer packages that include use of boards and gear. You usually won’t have to worry if you’ve opted for a planned surf camp in Peniche. You’ll be suited and given a board the first morning you get in the water.
Remember – Peniche is wetsuit territory. The Atlantic is rarely warm enough for a rash vest and board shorts.
Cashpoints and currency in Peniche
Peniche is in Portugal. The currency is the euro (€).
There are cashpoints on offer in Peniche town itself. A whole load of them are concentrated around Rua Dom Luís de Atayde. One or two more are by the Parque do Baluarte.
The smaller fishing town of Baleal doesn’t have any cashpoints. In fact, there’s not even room for a bank between it’s cute little whitewashed cottages. However, you can just walk up to Ferrel (a nearby inland village) on the busy Av do Mar to get an ATM. That takes around 20-30 minutes.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
Joseph Richard Francis
Joe “Rich” Francis has been surfing for the best part of 15 years. He’s nowhere near as good as he should be at the end of all that, but hey ho. Born and bred in Swansea, South Wales (the current base of The Surf Atlas), Joe is a seasoned adventure travel writer with completed publications in the surf-travel and adventure-travel sphere for major publications like Lonely Planet and The Culture Trip.
